Days 1&2

Finally here!   Only took us 18 months and 15 hour flight but finally we are here.  India has been on my bucket list forever …Who doesn’t want to see the Taj Mahal.?

India is everything you expect and nothing you can imagine ………. it’s so big, so much, so involved.   Planning (thank you Lori for doing the deep dive and orchestrating everything !) is complicated. And Lori did it all …..getting to airport back and forth after a 15 hour flight, visas, direct flights, shots – oh yes remember you are going to the third world so things that do not exist in the States are an issue here.  Polio is making a resurgence…Hepatitis, typhoid all that .

And the of course the simple stuff like packing, compression socks (don’t ask but you gotta have them), headscarfs at the temples,  no leather belts or shoes (cows are sacred there), anti-bacterial and so much more…..like leaving enough room for souvenirs.

Team India:  Me, Lauren, Lori and Pamalee

Ok so we look pretty thrilled right, adventures in India with camels and elephants and sipping masala tea while properly outfitted with head scarves and such and then we see the map on the plane.

Let me be clear you don’t just need to survive the journey across that line for 15 hours next to that little old guy hacking away right next to you next to the family who brought every travel bag they have and forgot the baby stuff that is in the back of the plane in the overhead bin where your bag was supposed to be which is now at your feet because there was not space, but you now have to survive that journey packed in that seat with your bag, head pillow and blanket without the sleeping bills you forgot to ask the doctor for and you now have to also watch the not just the line but all the time zones that go past you in the opposite direction.

What are you saying?  Yes, my friend as you go east the map goes west so you flight into the light of Europe and quickly proceed out into the darkness as you approach Asia.   It is amazing that you can be here then there.  Like the internet but slower.  So maybe like dial up as you watch it happen.

So we did this…….

 

 

For fifteen hours!!!!

Arrived!!!

Day 3  Old & New DelhI

Hurray!!

Last night we arrived late so with fatigue settled in and while we got there was traffic in the city, we had no idea.  

India is massive with 1.2bil people.  1.2 billion and frankly I felt like they were all on our street or at the very least in the club downstairs.  No, I did not sleep that nigh

Delhi is split into old and new and has been capital on and off through many different invaders – moguls, british, turks, arabs – a total of 7  invaders.  Were the romans here, weren’t they everywhere?

So when you tour Delhi, it looks like so many different things because it is.  Different architecture sometimes even in one building, different cultures, different religions (we could learn something here ….Hindus are in majority over 70 %, Muslims are 14%, all the rest like Sikh and Buddhists and Christians are 2%.  There are lots of 2% ers.  Again, we could learn.

For me , I hear the sounds of prayers and traffic and drama, people yelling and moving and I see the colors of spices and saris that roll up into a rich complicated history. TRANSLATION it is so loud and manic !!! But so fun!!

 

 

But one thing is the same, all Indians are crazy drivers. Oh my god, crossing the street is sport and frankly takes tactical military precision and skill because the rules do not exist when you are on the road.  

Or do what the tall skinny girl in the bright yellow saris does ……she raises the palm of her hand into traffic and makes her intentions known.   Happens in every city

 

 

In Delhi, we first go a Sikh temple smack in the middle of the city.  It’s called  Gurudwara. It belonged to the 9th maharaja of Delhi and the story goes that he was trying to help an ill man and he hit the ground, brought forth water and used the water to cure him.  One miracle and then everyone shows up. 

So now there is a massive temple where first off they feed hundreds and more likely thousands of people everyday, per meal and they let us walk through. Think YMCA on steroids.  I have to say beyond impressive

Of course, we were barefoot.  Of course

Barefoot through kitchen

 

 

 

We get to the actual Sikh temple. You can tell it is Sikh because All gold!  14 Karat gold dome on top.

We walked through with other pilgrims but purified and wash our hands and feet  Yes, still barefoot.  

When people walk in the touch the feet of the  entryway , while the teacher reads and teaches on the holy book.  They never turn their back to the holy book and touch the entry backwards on the way out.

I could not film in temple because of course it is a place of worship. Mind you, when I walked through evidently like all faiths – mobiles on silent are permissible.

Truthfully, I added video here because the one thing that you really cannot bring to life in text is the energy, constant motion and sounds of a place like this.

 

 

As we touched the pond of holy waters.  

All I could think….

My only issue ….

all glorious marble

Add water

Then walk 

‘Nuf said 

Not sure it worked but it was lovely.

Barefoot

Same day we saw………Muslim temple Jama Masjid aka mosque   

By the way, the guy who built this magnificent mosque which is the among the largest in India also built something pretty spectacular- the Taj Mahal- it’s Shah Jahan who was the 5th Mogul emperor.

Mosque rules require that it be fung shuied – direction must face towards west, three domes ,elevated platform with pulpit with water to purify

There again, no shoes so we have to pay a guy who sits at entrance to watch our shoes.  This is something we do a lot.

Take our shoes off, walk around barefoot and pay a guy so no one steals our shoes.

We also have to wear a robe since evidently people must also be fung shuied before they go into mosque.

 

yeah- we did not stick out at all!

Activity for the day: Rickshaw ride through Old Delhi. 

ABSOLUTELY FAB.  I was outright Shrieking because you will never do this again in such a crazy setting.  As you can see old Delhi is not where all the call centers are .  Not enough wires.

 

 

Add rickshaw video

 

 

Humayun’s tomb after which the modeled the Taj Mahal.  Really I think it is a ruse just so they can build up how fancy the Taj will be and get you all excited. Well it worked on.  Humayun was the second mogul who ruled over territory in what is now Afghanistan, Pakistan, and parts of northern India and Bangladesh

It’s like a starter Taj made of sandstone and marble. The fixer upper for the real deal.

 

 

Temples, mosques everywhere ….next door is ISA khan

Isa Kahn lived to be 95 and fought to keep  the moguls out and yet here they share the same plot of land – neighbors hah.  It is the only surviving octagonal tomb and it is blue and gorgeous

 

Next we see Mahatma Gandhi’s last residence.

Buddha sought enlightened Gandhi fought injustice and for Indian independence . Of course they talked about his life and work but here are the two things I liked  (1) in a case they had all his worldly possession. About 12 things total (2) the fact that he had benefactors no one really talks about  – the Birla family   – always good to be the guys guy.

Gems of everyday India

 

 

Spiritual 

Recap of gods worshiped in Hindu religion lotsa guys with faces of elephant and monkeys.  These guys are everywhere

 

Recap of gods

Lord shiva and lord 

Brahma creator 

Lord shiva is destroyer

Lord Vishnu preserver

Lord Krishna is 8th reincarnation of Vishnu 

Lord Rama 7th reincarnation

Ganesha is good of good luck. Elephant son of lord shiva

Lord hunumana  is the good with face of monkey is messenger of lord Rama 

and of course they also revere cows  – they are life sustaining as they provide milk

I believe cows in India have self awareness,  why do I know this because I think even they think Indian traffic is insane so they walk around trying to stop it   They walk against traffic , sit down wherever they deem appropriate and frankly disrupt eveything.  If you hurt a cow you do not survive   Is that crazy.???? They see no need for hustle and bustle. I like the cows.  We need some cows to slow things down here

 

 

 

 

Interesting fact.  We start seeing some interesting symbols. 

Six pointed star right you go right to Star of David but guess what It is not uniquely Jewish. It was taken from Egyptians.  But in Hindi faith it represents union of both male and female – purusha , the supreme being.

But what flips me sideways is the swastika.  Had no idea that the swastika is the symbol of the start of a nation.  Yeah see the hypocrisy in that 

Day 4 travel day from Delhi to Jaipur six hours on the bus. But it’s fun. Our guide Lalit. Who by the way goes by only one name and knows everyone in every city , at every hotel and toll both and restaurant.  Kinda godfather like  

Jaipur is called the Pink City. Jaipur was painted completely pink by the Leader in order to impress price Albert who was visiting in1876

Take a look at weather there   …… wild

Lalit is rich with info and shares everything he has ever learned.  What I love about him is that he wears a vest every day. These days people love that personal brand stuff all over internet.  My guy has a vest and it so works!

At the end of this travel day, Lalit takes us to our first official market run.  I have been to these markets before but I swear I have never seen anything like this. Narrow streets, shops up and and down in a row, chocked so full you cannot even walk in the stores except through a narrow passage which I suspect is intentional so you cannot get out, people screaming, luring you in to their shops while other people walk all around you in every direction at the same time and try to sell you stuff before you can even see the stuff the guy in the stall has while you try to walk and stay out of the way of the rickshaws and motor cycles and cows who loiter and then just as you are trying to check out the Buddha statue and indian barbie and  would love to buy this guy jumps in from of him mad try’s to sell you a duster.  Yes a duster to clean your house   They need more cows on this street.

Pashninas are the big ticket item here, likely from Kashmir at least the real ones but If money is involed, you can buy it here.

But really what you need to set the day right is to have a cup of masala chai tea like at the mall.   I had quite a bit and the one in Jaipur was the best..let me say this man had no shoes and was doing a serious pour….all I needed was a danish And it would have been perfection, so instead I had two cups of the Masala and yeah that so did it.

Day 5 Jaipur

First we see sights then we shop you get the jist here right, then we go to, Amer fort ……I am not sure if it is Amer or Amber but it is cool combo of Mughal and Hindu among the most colorful of the first we have seen.  It actually looks like a fort within a fort.

Whoops – also we passed this on the way there.  Yeah stunning on top of stunning. This place is called Hawa Mahal or Palace of the Winds with its lacy ornamental facade.   953 windows and it was internationally meant to have all this lattice work so that the ladies could look out without being seen, but all the windows mean lots of  air making its way through which I suspect in and Indian summer you really do need.

Jeep rides up to the Amer Fort once again we are racing this time through take a guess narrow roads up to to a walled city.  Monkeys and elephants on the way because well because this is the fort with the elephant god looming.  

 

Amer Fort was the summer palace of the rajas and despite being stripped down is a gorgeous piece of Hindu architecture 

You can imagine sitting in these ornate structures, Lined with carpets and gold and guys fanning the place with peacock feathers and curtains draped over all the entrances.

and yes, this is what the road up to there looked like – Yup – its exactly what you expect to see in traffic

Activity for the day:  Jaipur handicrafts

Hand made carpets, all products of farmers   This shop gets a massive subsidy because of the fact that India does not want fir these craft skills to die. So they teach farmers who lets face it struggle everywhere in the world and help supplement their livelihood while keeping the art alive.   

Okay this was the entryway which sold me right away.  Can you tell me why I would need an Indian door.  Really??? But when you display anything nicely OMG.  I missed the part part of the rug discussion because I was obsessing on them

We meet the smoothest salesman I have ever met and within 10 minutes I have had rum learned the difference between wool silk and blends and have purchased an expensive carpet. 10 minutes.  These guys are selling stuff since they were kids out on the streets so by the time they are adults and selling. The big stuff it is no great shakes. I need to give up my job and come sell feather dusters I bet I could hit my company’s goals in half that time.  You don’t even need to know what you are selling. Well I guess. That is kind of like my industry.

 

Oh yeah and did I mention, yes we bought rugs in India!

Day 6 travel to Agra.  The Taj but before we get to Agra we stop at the Chaud Boari  famous step well.  Absolutely escheresque and I read a few different articles that dates it from somewhere between the 8th and 10th century and it is exactly what it is supposed to be =- a well in one of the most arid parts of the country.  It is one of the deepest and largest in the country – seems in the past they used to be painted but no longer.

No it looks like the geometry puzzle that you could only imagine to solve with some 3500 steps – I would just love to walk them all..see if history would seep its way in through my feet.

Story of step well at last accordingly to alit was about a young man trying to woo a young woman  and she provided him with some sort of test about the moon

Who knew we were going there – by the way site of many movies!!!! Best Exotic Marigold hotel for one  –  not for nothing but some days you can feel why Judi Dench went.

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We then went for lunch at some tourist location but of course, first we stopped by to visit a temple with a yogi who gave us a bindi.. could not resist took a pic of his feet

The site was pretty cool- clearly a place where high end tourists would stay in tents – air conditioned tents in India – pretty swanky

 

AGRA

yes, finally the night before the Taj Mahal – we stayed at a fab hotel called the Trident.

Here’s to having fun anywhere – what did we do first thing there – get our henna tattoos- it was hysterical –   The hotel would bring in Indian ladies to do this. so you sit onto floor in the lobby and get your hands done –  we must have been there for over an hour .

So here is the deal – you have to put cream on it and then let it dry overnight and then it flakes off in the AM bbutttt if you forget to wash your hand then little hard dips of henna fall between the sheets and frankly are everywhere!

But is lasted for over a week  – LOVED IT and would do both arms if I had the time.

The next day we go to Agra – so it’s really funny – first you get your tickets, but here’s the ticket deal –

(1) first you go get your tickets at the stations behind us  – HUMANITY!!!!

Entry Fee S.No. Tourist Type Amount (Rs.) (Inclusive of ASI & ADA fees) 1. Foreign tourist 1100/- + 200/- Additional for visiting main mausoleum (Optional) 2. Citizens of SAARC and BIMSTEC Countries 540/- + 200/- Additional for visiting main mausoleum (Optional) 3. Domestic/Indian/OCI Cardholder 50/- + 200/- Additional for visiting main mausoleum (Optional)

Note-

(2)  they sell the tickets if you based on whether you are a foreigner or if you are a local  – ok big time difference!
(3) Then you get in liens for security because of course no where is safe – and so there is a woman’s line and a mens line – but honestly on the women’s line – just oodles of fabric – really what could you possibly find- it takes something like 20 feet of fabric for an average saree– I confirmed online and honestly have tied it about 20 times now!!!! But that is another story
(4) then all the lines coalesce in a main yard which is exquisite – so remember there was a place that was the model for the Taj  then then take you to this year that looks like this

(5) and then you get the pic – like when you come around that corner in Petra – it is stunning and almost looks not real

(6) So all of a sudden this very unreal thing that you never think you will see is just there floating in front of you

The story behind it is absolutely fab!

It was built in the 17th century by Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth.   What is interesting that I did not know is that there was supposed to be a black one for the emperor built right across the rover and in fact that vase is there for it , but as is the custom in dynasties, as the emperor mourned fora lengthy time his sone killed off his brothers and then imprisioned his father so that he had a little room where he could see the Taj from but never visit.

Right, just sad – sad emperor and then ugh

But now we all get to see this amazing site – it has to be cleaned and you cannot smoke there and panes cannot fly over it because it is so sensitive over the years and maintaining it is massive as is the humanity that visits it –

So we get to (7) put your little shoe covers on

(8)  You get your pic at the Princess Diana bench

‘

(9) you and your bootie join humanity – there are two lines = one for Indians and then one for tourists – supposed to be shorter for tourists. dream on – it is humanity .  Its a shame because we all wish to see it but it’s hard to sit and reflect on the AMAZINGNESS of something like this.  But you do your best!

(10) Stop for a minute and just take it in!!!!

Now brilliant marketing where do they take you affect the Taj –

Ok where is Pam – hiding from the camera!  Here’s a good one!

Onto the marble factory!

Red Fort
Story on Red Fort which is by the way also very crowded

built in the mid 1600 by guess who Shah Jahan who built everything in India it seems – he was moving the fort from Agra to Delhi so he built this and it was inhabited until about the 1860’s – think Victorians in the UK and then this – seems everyone lived here – Mogulas , british and still many monkie

 

Day with a Guide

Lori’s as always genius

Hundi temple, Lodi Gardens and Spice market

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BTW – love that there is a trip advisor tag on the case!

So so much more to do!!!!